Dish of the Week: Cauliflower at Popol Vuh

We wrote about Centro, Popol Vuh‘s sister restaurant when it opened, but have yet to sing the praises of the Vuh (no, not the Vu, that’s… something different). There’s so much to like about the Vuh (with an h) — it’s Mexican food like you’ve never had, at least not in Minneapolis. That could be a good thing if you love Mexican food and want a new option, or it could be a good thing if you hate Mexican food and need this to change your mind.

The entire menu is fantastic, but don’t skip the cauliflower. Yes, we are certified Cauliheads here at FDC — this empire was founded on the floret skulls of poor coliflor at Rincon 38 — but this one is worth the extra attention. The vegetable itself is roasted perfectly, cooked through yet still crunchy. However, it’s that green stuff below it that had this Jew praising Santa Maria for his good fortune. It’s a mole verde with a depth of flavor I can’t begin to comprehend. I really can only describe it by what it’s not. It’s not bad. OK, I can’t really do that either. I’m told by Google that mole verde trades earthiness of traditional mole for brightness, and sure, I got a lot of vegetal and acidic flavors, but I also got earthiness, and more. The only thing it didn’t seem to bring to the plate could’ve been solved by adding a few dollops of, say, rutabaga puree to the plate (he says, knowingly). Jklol, there were also dollops of rutabaga puree in there that hit my mouth with such creamy, buttery force that I almost cried knowing that yes, there is still beauty in this world. Find that beauty, all of it, at the Vuh (with an h).